Ephotozine

 

To help you give your urban photography an abstract feel, here are 8 top tips on what, how and where to take your photos when out exploring a town or city. 

 

1. Focus On What's Interesting

When you find something that catches your eye, think about how you can compose the shot to take the subject away from its surroundings so it becomes abstract rather than a great city shot with several interesting elements. The key to capturing an image that works is to create an image out of something ordinary that you wouldn't normally see while still creating an appealing shot.

 

2. More Than One Point Of Interest

When you have a subject that has multiple points of interest you have the opportunity to capture various elements, some which may not have seemed so obvious as working in an abstract way at the start.

 

3. Create Scale

Just because you're capturing abstracts doesn't mean you always have to work up-close. Think of it as cropping out unwanted elements rather than using your lens to zoom in. Use surrounding elements to emphasise size but still frame the image so the building's surroundings are removed, giving emphasis to its shapes and patterns rather than it having context. 

 

4. Use Colour

By using a single bright colour in a shot that's mostly of the same shades can give the viewer of the image a point of focus that can also be used to guide and lead the eye to other points in the shot. This is even more so when the area is limited and contrasts so greatly with the rest of the image. Strong blocks of colour can also work well but you don't want one to overpower the other so the viewer doesn't pay attention to the rest of the frame. 

 

 

5. Look For Shadows 

This isn't something our eyes tend to see but when arranged in the frame properly, they can be a great subject matter on their own or enhance the shapes/patterns of an object you're making your point of focus. 

 

6. Lines Work Well

 If you want to use lines in your image, try to find a location that gives you a shot that has lines that vary in size and colour. Bolder lines can have more impact than small, faint ones and do remember they will still guide the eye through the shot and tell the viewer where they should be looking. Don't think lines have to be straight either as a curved line will still guide the viewer's eye. 

 

7. Shoot Through Other Objects

If you find a rain-covered window or even a water feature that can be used to capture a distorted reflection thanks to the ripples in the water, use them to your advantage. Keep an eye out for coloured glass, reflective buildings and any other items you think will give your city shots that abstract feel you're searching for. 

 

8. People Like Patterns & Symmetry 

As humans, we like to see repeating patterns and symmetrical objects so take advantage of this. Patterns can guide the eye across an image as well as make your abstract shot more interesting thanks to the shapes they create. 

 

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Summer feels like it was made for photography, doesn’t it? The days stretch long, the light is warm, and everywhere you look, colour and energy are waiting to be captured. Whether it’s golden sunsets, sparkling water, lively festivals, or family adventures, summer moments deserve to be photographed. Get ready with your phone or camera—every day holds a frame-worthy memory waiting to be preserved and enjoyed.

However, as magical as summer light can be, it also presents challenges. Bright sunshine can cast harsh shadows, create faded skies, or produce unnatural skin tones. Look to Zoner Studio with its sensational editing tools, and you’ll find that tricky lighting conditions become easy to handle. 

With just a few clicks in the Zoner Studio interface, you can recover detail in bright highlights, lift shadows, and balance colours. Use the lights and shadows sliders and gradient filters to adjust white balance and sharpness. Built-in presets and retouching tools assist with everything from exposure correction to removing backgrounds, letting you transform your images without spending hours at the computer. 

 

 

Let’s look at the Color Reconstruction slider, for example. Take that recent beach shot of the family that lost its detail due to overexposure. Darken light areas, highlight contours, adjust brightness and contrast, and more, all with this easy-to-use tool. Then, that shot will soon be a treasured capture of a fun-filled holiday. This fantastic photo enhancement tool can be used on photos shot in RAW and only for those with blowouts.

Want to recover shadows, tone down bright areas, or fine-tune lights and shadows even more? If you’re working with RAW files, you’ll get the best results. Use the Black Point and White Point sliders to fine-tune contrast, the Lights and Shadows sliders in the Dynamic Range panel (these let you recover details in bright skies or dark areas without affecting the whole photo). Or simply adjust the Contrast slider for a broader effect. These tools help you balance your photo while bringing out highlights, colours, and details in the shadows. The Dynamic Range panel will allow even finer control.

 

 

Taking lots of photos is part of summer fun with its holidays and sightseeing ventures. This can also mean ending up with hundreds—sometimes thousands—of images. Sorting through them can feel overwhelming; allow Zoner Studio to make the culling process painless. Perhaps you're a professional photographer, looking for a fast workflow to process those magnificent wedding photos. Zoner Studio is the ideal solution.

Do you want to quickly spot your best work while filtering out duplicates or weaker shots? A terrific side-by-side comparison feature allows you to review images such as versions of the same beach wedding ceremony sunset and instantly choose the one you prefer. Customisable workflows and keyboard shortcuts will have you organising your photos in minutes. Use Zoner Studio’s autostacking function to group similar images, including continuous mode and your favourite panoramas. Click the Autostacking icon in the Navigation toolbar, where you’ll open the Autostack options, such as Exposure Bracketing and Panorama.

Once your photos are ready, storing them safely is just as essential a task as editing. Zoner Studio makes the entire process straightforward and enjoyable. With Zoner Cloud, you can upload images straight from Zoner Studio. Your favourite photos will be kept secure and neatly organised while making them accessible on any device. Whether it’s your summer vacation album, a handful of beach day shots, or an entire series of wedding day images, your photos are always backed up and within quick reach. 

 

 

How can Zoner Studio help you save your images easily and permanently? Zonerama—Zoner Studio’s innovative free online gallery—allows you to display your work without using up valuable storage space, as there’s no space limit with this gallery. View your stored albums privately, with family, or share them with your clients; share or show only what you want, the choice is entirely up to you. 

At the end of the day, summer is about capturing life’s brightest, most colourful moments, and having the right tools makes all the difference. Named EISA Photo Software 2025–2026 Best Photo Software of the Year, Zoner Studio is your ultimate companion for editing, organising, storing, and sharing. This summer, use Zoner Studio to help your creativity shine. Turn your experiences into fabulous memories you can view over and over. You can try it for a week, no strings attached here.

 

Always an interesting subject for photographers, standing stones and stone circles have fascinated people for centuries; but what is the best way to photograph them?

 

1. Lighting

Although standing stones change little through the day, the prime factors for photographing standing stones are lighting, atmosphere and, preferably an absence of people. Lighting can be good at either end of the day, but the absence of people usually restricts the keen photographer to an early start.

 

2. Wide Circles

The problem with many stone circles – including my local circle, Castlerigg, just outside Keswick, is that they are relatively low in height, and very extensive in width – so if you are to include the whole circle, you need a really interesting sky to balance the long, thin foreground. A graduated filter can be of enormous use here, as the stones early in the day may be in fairly low light, but the sky might be three or four stops lighter; without a grad, exposure for the sky will give a very underexposed foreground, conversely, exposure for the foreground will severely overexposed sky. An alternative would be to bracket exposures and join them using HDR software.

Compositionally, it's often best when trying to get the whole circle in either to take a series of overlapping pictures and join them as a panorama or by using a fairly wide lens, to give the foreground stones more dominance in the picture. 

 

3. Focus On A Part Of The Circle

An alternative way of portraying standing stones is by capturing part, rather than the whole. I spend a great deal of time looking at the relationship of the stones with each other, and their background, in order to create a picture that is well balanced. This technique also works well if there are other people present as it is much easier to select a few stones free of people than to wait for the whole circle to clear. This is particularly important if a group of stones – or their background – might benefit from afternoon light when there are more people present.

 

4. Try Black & White

Consider also the best way to portray the stones – whether colour or black & white, unless there is great sky colour present, such as sunrise or sunset, I like the timeless quality of black & white on standing stones, to simplify the image and render them as a set of neutral tones.

So next time you find yourself near a stone circle, set your alarm and capture the timeless quality of these ancient sites.
 

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Image Credit: Nikon

 

Nikon is pleased to announce the release of firmware version 2.00 for its full-frame mirrorless camera, the Nikon Z6III. This marks the first major update since the launch of the Z6III and introduces several features equivalent to those found in the flagship Nikon Z9 and Nikon Z8.

This first major update since the release of the Z6III, with its already incredible high-speed performance, adds the long-awaited [Birds] mode to subject detection, offering an enhanced shooting experience for stills and videos. When [Birds] mode is selected, the camera automatically tracks birds in flight with great precision, keeping them in focus even against complex, high-contrast backgrounds such as forests and rocky mountains.

Firmware version 2.00 also adds the Auto Capture function, enabling automatic shooting under pre-configured conditions, supporting flexible shooting styles tailored to various situations. This allows users to specify the subject type, direction of movement, and shooting distance range to capture previously difficult scenes, such as those that require shooting in places or positions where photographers would disturb their subject.

What's more, for the first time as a Nikon product, the Z6III supports the "Nikon Authenticity Service", a solution primarily aimed at media organisations and creators who require a high level of trustworthiness in their work. The service is compatible with the C2PA (Coalition for Content Provenance and Authenticity) standard, clearly recording provenance information from shooting through to editing to ensure greater transparency and reliability of content.

The list of functions made accessible thanks to firmware version 2.00 doesn't end there. The full list, along with access to download, can be found on the Nikon download centre.

Nikon will continue to enhance its products through firmware updates that address user needs, while also fostering an environment in which all photographers and creators can engage in creative and professional activities with confidence and peace of mind.

For more information, please visit the Nikon website.

 

Sigma, the renowned Japanese manufacturer of high-performance cameras and lenses, is proud to announce the opening of its exclusive pop-up store in Bloomsbury, just steps away from the British Museum. Running from 13 to 22 September 2025, the store offers visitors a rare opportunity to experience the critically acclaimed Sigma BF camera firsthand. Opening hours are 10am to 6pm daily.

Celebrated for its minimalist design and exceptional performance, the Sigma BF has quickly become a favourite among professional image creators. Engineered with a powerful full-frame sensor and crafted for intuitive handling, the BF delivers stunning image quality while maintaining a sleek, user-friendly form. Since its debut, the camera has earned top honours including Best Camera at the Monocle Design Awards 2025 and Best Full Frame Professional Camera at the TIPA World Awards 2025, praised for its “austere beauty, technical prowess and ease of use.”

Hand-built at Sigma’s sole factory in Aizu, Japan, the BF exemplifies the brand’s dedication to precision and craftsmanship. Each camera features a unibody design milled from a single aluminium ingot—a meticulous process that takes over seven hours and ensures uncompromising quality. Visitors to the pop-up will also have the chance to explore Sigma’s full range of professional-grade stills and cine lenses, trusted by photographers and filmmakers worldwide. 

Sigma will also be running six free photo walks during the week, all of which start and end at the store. Each one is led by a professional photographer, who will be able to show you how to shoot more meaningful and beautiful images in a busy urban setting. There is no obligation to use Sigma equipment, but you’re very welcome to borrow gear if you wish during the walk. This includes BF cameras and matching I series lenses (subject to numbers). No booking is required on the walks, but we are limiting numbers of some of the walks so places will be allocated on the day on a first-come-first-served basis.

 

The store address is:

33 Museum Street, London WC1A 1LH

 

For more information, please visit the Sigma website.

 

 

Using long exposure can create some cracking shots when used correctly but the smooth, almost dry-ice look using longer shutter speeds gives to water isn't everyone's cup of tea or idea of fun when they're heading off for a day of photography outdoors. So, if you've never tried this technique before and are wondering if it's for you, have a think about the following questions to help you decide.

 

1. Are you a fan of the outdoors?

This technique is all about leaving the shutter open long enough to turn movement into creative streaks and blur to give you a landscape with an almost graphical twist. For this reason, many types of these shots are taken where there's a wide expanse of water (the coast mainly) but you can also capture inland landscapes when you have a sky dotted with clouds or scenes with waterfalls that can add a feeling of movement and direction to the shot when taken with longer shutter speeds. The coast does give you many other still objects you can use to guide the eye and add interest to your shots though. Think tall piers sat in a mist of water, rocks adding foreground interest and several groynes or even a jetty leading the eye.

If you prefer city shooting, you can use the same technique to create streaks of colour from traffic.

 

2. Do you have a tripod?

If the answer to this is 'no' and you don't intend purchasing one anytime soon then long exposure photography isn't for you. Why? Well, with exposures in access of 30 seconds, these types of images aren't something you can really successfully take hand-held as shake will just ruin your shots.

 

3. Do you have a remote / cable release?

This isn't as important as owning a tripod but owning and using one will mean you don't have to actually touch the camera's shutter button, reducing the chances of shake spoiling the shot. However, if you want to use your camera's Bulb mode, you really need to have a remote / cable release in your kit collection. If you have a camera you've purchased more recently then it may have the option for the shutter to be controlled via an app from your Smartphone, eliminating the need for a remote to be purchased.

 

4. Do you have an ND filter?

To get the really long exposures, particularly when working out of the hours of dawn and dusk, you'll need an ND filter. These come in various strengths and will extend your shutter speeds to the length needed for capturing silk-like water and clouds streaked across the sky.

If you don't own an ND filter but do have a polariser you can still try this technique but you'll have to do it at the start or end of the day when light levels are lower. You'll also need to use a low ISO and keep your apertures small.

Polarising filter can work if just starting out or shoot at dusk with a low ISO and narrow aperture.

 

 

5. Do you have patience?

This technique isn't for someone who likes to take a quick snap and move onto the next thing as you will end up standing around for a while waiting for your camera to capture and process the image. With exposure times that can often extend well beyond a minute, you can find yourself twiddling your thumbs quite a lot of the time. However, if you enjoy quiet moments of contemplation or just like to watch the world go by, then maybe playing around with longer shutter speeds is for you.

 

6. Do you have an eye for composition?

When working with longer shutter speeds, landscape scenes can often take on a more graphical feel/composition and you have to ensure there are elements in the frame which will show movement as well as items to guide the eye and add balance. Without clouds moving across the sky or some form of water element, there won't be any movement which when combined with a slower shutter speed is what gives you the nice streaks and soft, blurry water effect.

 

7. Do you mind working out calculations?

Although this statement isn't relevant to everyone any more, if you don't own a smartphone or forget to take it out with you, you'll find yourself scribbling down shutter speed calculations when working with Bulb mode. So, if you're not a fan of maths, you'll need to invest in one of the many apps that will work out calculations for you.

  8. Do you have Live View?

Cameras that have a Live View function make the set-up for this technique much simpler as it often still works even with a strong ND filter attached to your lens. If you look through a viewfinder with an ND filter attached you won't be able to see anything which means to set-up, you have to remove the filter to compose and focus (manually) before carefully fitting the filter back in-place which is obviously doable but not as straightforward as using Live View.  

 

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Shooting in stormy weather can produce some great shots, but you need to know a few things before you start hitting the shutter button.

 

1. Safety First

Firstly, be very careful if there's thunder and lightning as this can potentially be very dangerous for you and your equipment. Make sure you are a safe distance away from the storm and don't stray too far away from your car or home, just in case. It's always worth reading up on lightning safety tips and if it's possible, consider shooting from inside.
 

2. Long Exposures

As you'll increase your chance of capturing lightning if you use a longer exposure, a tripod will be needed to stop shake spoiling your shots. If your camera has a Bulb setting, and you have a way to keep the shutter open, use this method to increase your chances further. If not, around a 30-second exposure should be fine.

Storms can occur at any time of day but trying to use longer exposures during the day can lead to overexposed skies so wait for an evening storm when the sky's darker.
 

3. Timing

The process of shooting storms can be a bit hit and miss, however, as Pete mentioned in a previous article, you can determine roughly when to fire the shutter by working out the direction of which the storm is moving.

Pete said: "In nature, light travels faster than sound, so lightening strikes first followed by thunder, but us photographers can reverse the process (wait for thunder then count the time between that and a lightning strike) to time a shot and predict roughly when lightning will strike.

When you hear thunder count in seconds the gap before the lightning strike(s). If after the next rumble the lightning strike's quicker, it's likely that the storm is moving towards you and strikes will become more frequent until it passes over."
 

4. Lightning

To capture lighting, you need patience. Set your camera up on a tripod and aim it at where the storm seems to be. Look where the lightning appears and set your camera up facing that general area as lightning tends to strike intermittently in the same area. You should use a small aperture, f/16 or f/22 if possible. Use a long exposure as mentioned earlier to increase your chances of capturing lightning. You may find you need to focus manually as autofocus can struggle in dark conditions.

You'll need a piece of card to cover the lens which you can remove when you think lightning's about to strike and hold back in place when it's happened. Timing is everything but after a few strikes, you should get the hang of it. 

 

5. Clouds

It isn't all about lightning though, storm clouds can also make very provoking photos too. To add more interest, use objects such as trees on the horizon line. This will also add scale to the shot, further enhancing the size of the storm clouds above.
 

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Launch offer: Now just $15 for the first month of the Aftershoot Pro plan following a 30-day free trial.

 

Aftershoot recently announced the launch of Instant AI Profiles, a breakthrough feature that allows photographers to transform their Lightroom presets into adaptive AI-powered editing profiles in less than 60 seconds. Instant AI Profiles make AI editing accessible from day one – just your own presets turned into consistent, personalized edits.

While creating a Professional AI Profile requires a large, consistent editing library, many photographers instead rely on Lightroom presets that still need manual fine-tuning – Instant AI Profiles transform those presets into a smarter, scalable AI-powered workflow.

 

Instant AI Profiles: Key Benefits

• Smarter Than Presets Alone – applies your style intelligently per image with context, adapting to lighting, camera, and scene.
• No Uploads Required – Builds an AI profile in minutes, without needing a single photo upload.
• Consistent, Branded Results – Delivers a signature look at scale from day one.
• Room to Grow – Start with Instant AI Profiles, then seamlessly upgrade to Professional AI Profiles for maximum precision as you edit more.

 

“With Instant AI Profiles, we’re removing wait time that arises due to lack of training datasets photographers can provide from the get-go,” said Justin Benson, Co-Founder of Aftershoot. “In just a minute, photographers can see their look intelligently applied across a gallery. It’s the fastest way to get from preset to adaptive edits, while still opening the door to future growth with Pro AI Profiles.”

Harshit Dwivedi, Founder and CEO of Aftershoot, added: “We built Instant AI Profiles to make AI editing accessible to more photographers. Until now, creating a custom AI profile required Lightroom Classic catalogs with at least 2,500 edited photos, which left many relying on marketplace profiles that didn't always reflect their style. With Instant AI Profiles, photographers can transform their own presets into adaptive editing styles – better than presets alone, and tailored to their look.”

Unlike Lightroom’s presets, which apply a fixed look across every photo, Instant AI Profiles apply your style dynamically – adjusting for lighting, camera model, and scene context to deliver smarter, more tailored edits. That means less manual correction and more consistency from the start.

 

 

How It Works

Creating an Instant AI Profile takes just a few minutes:

1. Upload your own Lightroom preset (.xmp).
2. Personalize your AI Profile with a simple 3-step visual guide, adjusting exposure, temperature, and tint to your style.
3. Click “Generate Profile” – and your Instant AI Profile is ready to use across the entire galleries.

Instant AI Profiles are included with Aftershoot Pro and above, available starting August 26, 2025. To celebrate the launch, new users can claim a 30-day free trial plus their first month of Aftershoot Pro for just $15 (usually $48/month).

For existing trial users, the special $15 first-month offer is also available as part of a limited-time campaign running through September 9, 2025.

To try Instant AI Profiles, please visit the Aftershoot website.

 

Most of the time, when you're out taking photographs, even if it's a quick snap, make sure your shot has a strong point of interest as if it doesn't, you'll find anyone who looks at your image will look at the image, their eyes won't find anything to settle on and they'll simply move on to look at another shot. Without a focal point, there's nothing to draw them into the photograph so they'll simply lose interest with it. Of course, the more interesting the focal point is, the better your shot will be but there are a few other things you can do to make sure your focal point draws the viewer's attention.

 

1. One Main Focus Point

Images can have various points of interest but don't let them pull the attention from the main subject as your shot will just become confusing and the viewer will be unsure what to look at. Less attention-grabbing points of interest can be used on lines to draw the eye to a final resting point.

 

2. Lead In Lines

As mentioned above, by placing minor points of interest along a line you can guide the eye to your main point of interest. Straight lines such as fences or paths work well but other shapes, as talked about in our beginner's composition guide, can work equally as well. The spiral of a staircase will guide the eye up or down while positioning items along an S curve with the main point of focus at the end will lead the eye through the image. There's also the triangle where key features appear along the sides and points of the shape and when it's used correctly, you can create balance in your shot and also guide the eye through the photograph. Repetitive or symmetrical objects such as lamp posts lining either side of a street, a line of palm trees, statues or a series of arches can also be used to guide the eye to a single point.

 

3. What's In Focus

By using a larger aperture if you're working manually or by selecting Portrait Mode or Macro Mode if you're working close-up, which lets the camera know you want to use a larger aperture, you'll be able to throw the background out of focus, leaving all the attention on your main subject which will be sharp. By putting more distance between your subject and the background you'll be able to make the effect more prominent too. If you're a DSLR user, switching to a longer lens (zoom or prime) with wider maximum apertures will make it easier to get the blurry backgrounds you're looking for.

 

Photo by Joshua Waller 

 

4. Blur

When your main subject is moving, be it a pet, a person running, a car or bike, try using a slower shutter speed and pan with them, blurring the background into streaks but leaving them sharp. This will mean all focus falls on your main subject and the sense of speed is increased thanks to the horizontal streaks the background now has.

 

5. Size

A more obvious way to make sure you have one main point of focus is to fill the frame with it. This works particularly well when photographing flowers but can be applied to portraits too.

Photo by Joshua Waller 

6. Colour And Pop

Use contrasting colours or take it one step further and have a go at colour-popping, where you leave your main point of focus in colour and turn the rest of the image black & white. If you're shooting portraits, positioning your subject against a dark background will really make them 'pop' from the image.

 

7. Frame

By adding a frame you guide the eye to one main focal point in the scene that you want highlighting. You can also hide other objects you don't want to be in the shot behind your frame and it does have the added effect of just making your image more interesting generally.

 

8. Crop

If you have images on your computer that seem a little busy try cropping it to see if removing some of the elements makes it less busy and as a result, you get a main point of focus.
 

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Canals were once used to transport goods to towns and cities right across the UK and as a result, there are still plenty of waterways running through our city streets. The long canals, bridges and lock gates that once supplied goods now supply ample photography opportunities and as they all have public walkways, you're not going to upset anyone if you spend an hour two with your camera at the side of one.

 

1. Gear Suggestions

When you're heading out of the door make sure you have your wide-angle and telephoto lens with you. A tripod would also be handy if you want to try and smooth the waterfall of water that sometimes flows over the lock gates. You may also want to check you've got your polarising filter as this can help eliminate the problems you get with reflections when photographing water.
 

2. Go Wide 

If you want to include some of the homes, offices and bars in your shot take out your wide-angle lens. You'll be able to capture the urban setting and also exaggerate the length of the canal or any of the longboats that are on it. If the canal's your main point of interest use your telephoto lens to bring the boats, locks or any other background interest to you. You can get a great shot by standing on a bridge over the centre of the canal.
 

3. Look For Locks 

Locks are an attractive feature on the canal so try and focus your attention on one as a boat passes through or slow down your shutter speed and make the water gushing over the lock your focus of the image. If you have a series of lock gates they're perfect for bringing symmetry to your shot.

 

 

4. Leading Lines 

As the canal's a straight line of water you've got several leading lines to help you with your composition. Try framing up so you have the canal entering from one corner, leading the eye into and through the image. It's a great way to guide the viewer to a particular focal point in the city. You can use the bridges that stretch over the canals to frame parts of the city too just watch your exposure and bracket if you need to.
 

5. People Watching 

It's trendy to have a bar or home by the water which gives you the opportunity to include people in your scene. Places such as the Victoria Quays in Sheffield or the more famous Camden Lock have bars, restaurants and apartments surrounding the water and they're often buzzing with activity. Try shooting some candids of people relaxing by the lock or take a walk around, shooting from the hip as you stroll.
 

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Shooting an A to Z photo project is a more versatile area of photography than you might first think. You can, of course, shoot items that begin with each letter of the alphabet, but it's much more fun and testing at times if you shoot things that are shaped like letters.

 

What Gear Do I Need?

As letters can be found in various locations at different heights and angles you'll probably want to take a zoom lens out on your journey with you so you can shoot wide and also at longer focal lengths without the added weight of multiple lenses weighing your bag down. 

 

The Search

Some letters will jump out of the subject at you with ease while others will take a little more thinking about. Make sure you carry a checklist to keep a track of letters you've captured and you may find it easier to think about one letter at a time rather than hunting for several in one go. 

This project will have you walking all over so wear a comfy pair of shoes and of you have kids, this is a great thing to get them involved in, too.

 

Some Suggestions 

Branches make good candidates and also rocks with holes in can make great 'A's or 'P's. Anything that looks even remotely like a letter will create a quirky and fun piece of photography. A lamp-post, for example, will make a great 'I' while the end of a bench looks like an 'L' if you look closely enough. Once you've found all of your letters, try turning them into one big collage that you can hang on your wall. You'll probably find yourself capturing the near and far, the small and large, the straight and the curved, in sunshine and shade so this project is a great way to challenge yourself and your photography skills.

 

 

A Twist On The Theme

The other thing that you could try with this theme is an A - Z of photography styles. B for Black and White, S for sepia, etc. This is probably suited to more experienced photographers who know more terminology, though.

Another more fun thing you can try is getting a group of friends to pose as all the letters of the alphabet or as mentioned above, capture objects that begin with each letter of the alphabet. If you've already tried an alphabet project why not take on a number challenge instead? 

Be experimental with this - there are no real rules other than that the photos must represent the alphabet in some way. You could make it more challenging by limiting yourself to inside or outside objects, for example. But most importantly, though, it's about having fun and enjoying your photography!

 

You've read the technique now share your related photos for the chance to win prizes: Daily Forum Competition

 

1. Where To Go? 

Meadows with wildflowers growing in abundance are great places for photographing butterflies but please don't trespass on other people's property. You could also visit one of the many nature reserves or public gardens found right across the UK.

If you can't get out and about to photograph butterflies it's worth growing plants in your garden or window boxes etc. that will attract butterflies. These include Aubrieta, Buddleia, Primrose, Honeysuckle, Lavender, Lilac, Marigold, Phlox, Mint, and Thyme. Get to know which plants caterpillars feed upon, too, as you can plant them in your garden or look out for them on your travels.
 

2. Buy A Guide

A butterfly guide book can be very useful in identifying the species whilst out in the field. Occasionally, you may come across a species which is rare or not even native to the UK, it’s handy to know if you have spotted a rare species or even one in decline so you can report your sighting. Of course, you can also use the internet once back home for your research. 

 

 

3. Time Of Day

The best time of day to maximise your chances of photographing butterflies will be early morning or in the evening as they don't move around as quickly. At these times, you may even be lucky enough to see one emerging or covered in dew which can make for that extra special photograph. 

Try to stand/approach them so your shadow doesn't cover them as they'll tend to fly off in search of a sunnier spot. 

If you start out early and temperatures are relatively cool then you may get lucky and find a few sleeping. By approaching slowly and quietly you may be able to move distracting stems etc. out of the way without disturbing your subject, to help with a more pleasing composition. Do take care not to destroy their habitat as many species are declining in numbers.
 

4. Shutter Speeds & Set-Up

Another way to increase your chances of capturing a good shot is by switching to burst mode / continuous shooting. By doing so your camera will rapidly take a series of shots.

Instead of chasing a butterfly around your garden, it can be easier to find a plant you know they like and set up nearby. Then you just have to wait patiently for your subject to land on the part of the plant you're framed upon. It can be a little hit and miss and you will, more than likely, end up waiting a while but on a warm summer's day, having to sit out in your garden isn't really a bad way to pass a few hours!

 

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A view of the Mekong River in Laos features a balanced composition and natural light.

Titled Mekong Views Laos and taken by Backabit, the photo places the river in the foreground, with trees along the banks and steep limestone cliffs rising behind. Additional layers of trees and hills extend into the distance, enhancing the sense of depth. The light is soft and even, bringing out detail across the scene. There’s a stillness to the image that feels grounded—calm, enduring, and true to the landscape.

Every Photo of the Week (POTW) winner will be rewarded with a Samsung 128GB PRO Plus microSDXC memory card with SD adapter, providing top-tier storage for all your creative needs across multiple devices. But that's not all! In January 2026, we’ll crown our 2025 Photo of the Year winner, who will take home the ultimate prize of a Samsung Portable 1TB SSD T7 Shield, courtesy of Samsung. It’s time to shoot, submit, and showcase your best work for a chance to win these incredible rewards!

 

Line Up by Scooby10 shows the Red Arrows parked at Norwich Airport. The aircraft are arranged in a symmetrical formation, with tail fins aligned in a consistent pattern. The angle of the shot shows the jets in a clear, orderly layout.

The composition emphasizes structure and simplicity, with repeated shapes and clean lines creating a visually balanced scene.

Every Photo of the Week (POTW) winner will be rewarded with a Samsung 128GB PRO Plus microSDXC memory card with SD adapter, providing top-tier storage for all your creative needs across multiple devices. But that's not all! In January 2026, we’ll crown our 2025 Photo of the Year winner, who will take home the ultimate prize of a Samsung Portable 1TB SSD T7 Shield, courtesy of Samsung. It’s time to shoot, submit, and showcase your best work for a chance to win these incredible rewards!

  If used correctly, the empty space you leave in your shots (negative space) can make your photograph more interesting and easier to focus on rather than trying to fill every inch of the frame with interest. Negative space can play several important compositional roles so here are a few tips to help you think more about making the most of what's not in your scene:  

 

1. Reinforce What's Important

The obvious role of negative space is to show the viewer of your image what is and what isn't important in your shot. If there's nothing else fighting for focus, their eyes will be able to settle on your main subject without searching the rest of the shot first.

2. Balance Your Shot

Negative space can make a shot appear more balanced and as a general rule, you need twice as much negative space to the area taken up by your subject. For example, if you shot a close-up portrait and your subject fills the right third of the frame, you'd want the two thirds to the left to be negative space.
 

3. Give Your Shot Context

Of course, there are times, such as when you're shooting environmental portraits where you want to make the most of the size of the place you're taking photos in, when the above rule won't apply.

With environmental portraits, it's often what's around your subject that gives the shot more interest so filling your frame with your subject would mean the context would be lost.

 

 

4. Space For Your Subject

If you do place your subject to one side of your frame make sure they're looking towards the area of negative space. The same goes for action shots where they're running through the frame as generally, your shot will be more compositionally pleasing if they have space to move into. Of course, if you're wanting them to increase the sense of speed or want to make people wonder what they're looking at, position the negative space behind them, almost pushing them out of the frame.

5. Negative Space Doesn't Have To Be 'Empty'

By using one colour in your background when shooting indoors or by throwing it out of focus if you're shooting outdoors, it won't become a point of focus for your viewer so all attention will fall on your main subject. However, sometimes adding blur to your backgrounds will leave your shot with less impact. For example, if you're out shooting portraits and behind your subject is a mountain scene, shooting with a smaller aperture so you get front to back sharpness will exaggerate the amount of negative space around them, giving the shot more meaning and impact as a result.

6. Exaggerate The Negative Space

Take the idea one step further and strip all the colour out of your shot, leaving just the shapes and space around them to tell your story. You could also remove all the textures from the shot by shooting silhouettes.

 

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Head to the coast on a sunny day or even to your local reservoir and you'll probably find someone skimming along the water, holding onto a sail fasted to a windsurf board or getting pulled along by a boat on a board. The pros make it look easy and their jumps, turns and sheer speed make water sports a great photographic subject.

  1. Kit Choices If you're not up for getting your feet wet you'll need a long telephoto to bring the action to you. A monopod or tripod can also be handy, but not everyone finds them useful, especially when you're panning at quite fast speeds.

For those of you who don't mind braving cold, British water get your wetsuit on to get right in among the action. Here, you can use a slightly shorter lens or even a fisheye to capture some unusual action shots. However, if you're new to this type of photography it's worth sticking with a slightly longer focal length, around 100mm, to keep a safe amount of distance between you and the action. Wides also work well when you want to give your shots context but your subject may look a little small in the frame if you use them on-shore so do check your frame and switch lenses if this is the case.

If you do want to head out into the waves please always think about safety and make sure you can be clearly seen by those on land as well as the sailors around you. Don't get in anyone's way and always be aware of your surroundings.

You'll also need a waterproof camera or waterproof housing for your camera that doesn't like getting wet. If you plan on leaving your camera bag near the shore make sure it's fastened up and if you have one, put a waterproof cover on it to stop spray and water that comes off the windsurfers as they exit the water getting on your not so water-friendly kit. Remember to test your waterproof housing without your kit in it to start to make sure there are no leaks and when you do put your camera inside it, place it in shallow water first before heading out deeper just to double-check the seals etc. are working correctly.

If you're heading to the beach to capture shots of surfers rather than spending some time by your local reservoir, try not to change lenses on the sand as you don't want grains getting inside your kit.

 

2. Speed & Action

Windsurfing and other water sports tend to have quite a lot of pace and action which does mean there's plenty to photograph but as bad light, bad weather and the speed at which they move at makes life difficult, it can be tricky to get a perfect shot.

If you've not photographed this kind of subject before try to find a reservoir where beginners practise as these will be moving at a slower pace so will be easier to keep up with. It's also worth focusing and tracking one individual rather than moving your focus from one person to another and while doing so, try not to get others in-frame who may full attention from your main subject.

If you do want to go after the pros you'll need to crank your shutter speeds up to freeze their movement and have your panning perfected before you arrive so you can keep them in shot. Shutter speeds of 1/100 and above are often needed to capture action in your frame and it's worth switching to continuous shooting mode to increase your chances of capturing that perfect action shot. Auto-focus can work so long as it's continuously tracking your subject and try to leave room for your subject to ride into.

If you want to add an extra sense of pace to your photos try selecting a slightly slower shutter speed (half a second should be enough) and pan at the same speed your subject is moving at to blur the background. You could combine the slower shutter speed panning technique with a pop of flash to freeze your subject against a nicely out of focus, blurred background that will enhance the feeling of speed in your shot.

 

Photo by Josh Waller 

 

3. Framing Advice

Always make sure you've filled the frame as unless there's something interesting such as a giant wave they're jumping, a tiny person in the middle of a mass of water's not really interesting and they'll be completely lost in the image. Watch out for wonky horizons too, although these are quite easily corrected in post-production once you're back home and consider shooting in a vertical as well as a horizontal format when the scene suits it.

  4. Metering Tips

Keep an eye on your metering when you're on the edge or out in the water as a bright sky and reflections off the water can confuse the camera into thinking it's brighter than it is and you'll end up with an underexposed image. It's worth checking your histogram and using the highlight clipping feature on your camera to ensure your shot isn't overexposed. You may also want to consider using exposure compensation and dialling down to a negative figure to balance the exposure correctly.

If you happen to be out on a day when the light's really bad your images can look flat and lose impact. However, if you focus your attention more on showing the big waves and cropping in close to show the huge amounts of spray coming off the boards you can still get some decent images.

  5. On Shore

Not everyone will have the kit needed to capture action shots and if this is the case for you, just re-think the shots you're taking and focus your attention onshore. People entering/exiting the water, riders getting kit ready and putting wetsuits on are just a few of the things you can capture without the need for a long lens or getting your feet wet and they can be just as interesting as the shots of the water.

 

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The latest winner of our popular daily photography theme which takes place in our forums have been chosen and congratulations go to NDODS (Day 3 - The Night Sky).

 

Daily Theme Runners-Up

If you didn't win this time, keep uploading your images to the daily competition forum for another chance to win! If you're new to the Daily Theme, you can find out more about it in the Daily Theme Q&A. 

Well done to our latest runners-up, too, whose images you can take a look at below.

  Day 1

Creative Portraiture

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Day 2

Coastal Landscapes

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Day 4

Zoom Burst

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Day 5

Fancy Dress

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Day 6

Birds Of Prey

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Day 7

Festivals

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Day 8

Speed

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You’ll find the Daily Themes, along with other great photo competitions, over in our Forum. Take a look to see the latest daily photo contests. Open to all levels of photographer, you’re sure to find a photography competition to enter. Why not share details of competitions with our community? Join the camaraderie and upload an image to our Gallery.

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The latest winner of our popular daily photography theme which takes place in our forums have been chosen and congratulations go to Kev8990 (Day 21 - Nature In The Summer).

 

Daily Theme Runners-Up

If you didn't win this time, keep uploading your images to the daily competition forum for another chance to win! If you're new to the Daily Theme, you can find out more about it in the Daily Theme Q&A. 

Well done to our latest runners-up, too, whose images you can take a look at below.

  Day 17

Silhouettes

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Day 18

Panoramics

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Day 19

'Blue' Theme

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Day 20

Beach Huts In The Landscape

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Day 22

Insects

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Day 23

Markets

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You’ll find the Daily Themes, along with other great photo competitions, over in our Forum. Take a look to see the latest daily photo contests. Open to all levels of photographer, you’re sure to find a photography competition to enter. Why not share details of competitions with our community? Join the camaraderie and upload an image to our Gallery.

 

Once you have your tourist, postcard style shots, spend a few hours of your vacation time thinking about how you can do things a little bit differently. (Yes, we know we are talking about not doing this but the reason everyone takes these shots is that they do actually look good, most of the time. Just remember to get up early or stay out late to miss the rush of tourists so you stand a better chance of capturing people-free shots.)
 

1. Use It As A Secondary Point Of Interest

Instead of making the landmark your main point of focus, place another object in the foreground and use the landmark as background detail for your shot. You could use a larger aperture to throw it slightly out of focus but don't go too wide as you still want the landmark to be recognisable. For shots with plenty of depth of field, think like a landscape photographer, standing further back from your landmark so you can add interest in the foreground as well as the middle and background of the shot.

 

2. Find A New Angle

This is an obvious point that's also easier said than done sometimes but even the smallest change in composition can make a big difference to the shot. Try blurring foliage into an out of focus frame, shoot through a window or arch or look for objects your landmark can be reflected in. Shooting down into a puddle of water, particularly on a moody, wet day will give any landmark photo an interesting twist while switching from a wide lens to telephoto so you can crop in will give you a shot that's ever so subtly different but yet, still recognisable to those back home.

Watch for where the crowds go and head off in a different direction, looking for new vantage points to shoot from. This could mean climbing to get above it or trying to get lower to shoot from nearer the ground. We can't guarantee you won't get any funny looks but you should walk away with a set of unique shots. 

 

 

3. Get In Close

As landmarks are well known you don't have to get the whole structure in the frame for people to know what it is. The blue/green shade of the Statue of Liberty will be recognisable no matter how close you zoom in. In fact, the shapes created to form drapes in the statue's clothing could create an interesting abstract shot if you have a lens that can get you close enough.

 

4. Head Out When Other's Don't

A cloudy, rainy day will put most sight-seers off and you should take advantage of this. They'll be less bad weather shots than there are scenes with blue sky and sun. Rainy days also mean you can shoot reflections (as mentioned above). Just remember to protect your equipment as unless it's waterproof, it won't like the rain.

 

 

5. Human Interest

We said above to head out early/late to avoid crowds but including one or two people can give your landmark shot a new angle. By adding people, street vendors setting up near the landmark or people sweeping away rubbish, you add a new level of interest to what would be 'just another tourist shot'. As people have a habit of stopping what they're doing and either grinning or frowning when they see a camera pointed at them you may need to work more like a street photographer to get shots where your subject isn't posed. 

   

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Photo by Joshua Waller

 

1. What Is It?

Environmental portrait photography has nothing to to with global warming or looking after the planet. It is all about photographing your subject in their natural environment. This can be anywhere from where they work, where they live, or anywhere where they like to spend their time. It is all about portraying something of the character of your subject through where they are in the photo.

 

2. Find A Location

It can be difficult to set up a shot properly with environmental photography. But persevere until you find the perfect location for your subject, and you will be rewarded. So how is the perfect destination for a shot found? Firstly, you have to get to know your subject. You need to find out what they like to do in their spare time, what their hobbies are, where they enjoy going etc. When you know this, you can then add together what you have found out to place them in their own perfect photographic location, which also portrays who they are as a person. Think of it as a candid shoot with a studio approach when it comes to some of your shooting and the setting up of the scene.

 

3. Backgrounds

There should be some background detail, to add character to a picture, but not so much that it overpowers the presence of the person in the shot. The idea behind this method of photography is that the background subtly adds to the feel of the portrait yet does not become the main feature. If you find the background to be too distracting, try using a wider aperture to blur the background so you can still make out what's there but the eye is immediately drawn to the person instead. You could also try cropping the shot when you're back at your computer or simply move your subject to a place where the background isn't so distracting. Remember, you want your location to relate to your subject and add interest to the shot without actually pulling attention away from your main point of focus.

 

4. What To Wear

You want your subject to be relaxed and comfortable so don't dress them in something that will make them uncomfortable. Keeping their hands busy is a good way to distract them so bring along some props, so long as they fit the theme and don't distract the viewer's attention too much.

 

5. How To Pose

Posing your subject but still getting them to look natural so it looks almost candid takes some work but with directions and guidance from you, your subject should find a pose that works in no time. Try to make them as relaxed as possible as any tension will be visible on their face. A simple chat will help ease their worries so you're then free to ask them to create whatever expression suits the scene you're working with.

This technique can be challenging at times, but once you get used to the methods of taking environmental photos, you will love the results it gives you. A lot of photographers love it because it is more than a picture, it's an insight into someone's personality and life. Why not have a go yourself, and see what amazing and expressive results you can achieve?

 

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