Photography News

The Sigma 200mm f/2 DG OS Sports lens is one of those rare tools that changes how you think about shooting. Its fast aperture and reach give you creative options you don’t get anywhere else. For portrait work, it can create subject isolation that looks almost unreal. For sports and action, it offers the kind of speed and sharpness usually reserved for the most expensive first-party lenses. The balance between performance and price makes it an option worth serious attention.

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Gen Z couples are entering the wedding market, and that means a shift in expectations for how you run your business. Their preferences lean toward speed, flexibility, and digital-first options, so if you want to stay competitive, now is the time to rethink the way you package and deliver your work.

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To help you give your urban photography an abstract feel, here are 8 top tips on what, how and where to take your photos when out exploring a town or city. 

 

1. Focus On What's Interesting

When you find something that catches your eye, think about how you can compose the shot to take the subject away from its surroundings so it becomes abstract rather than a great city shot with several interesting elements. The key to capturing an image that works is to create an image out of something ordinary that you wouldn't normally see while still creating an appealing shot.

 

2. More Than One Point Of Interest

When you have a subject that has multiple points of interest you have the opportunity to capture various elements, some which may not have seemed so obvious as working in an abstract way at the start.

 

3. Create Scale

Just because you're capturing abstracts doesn't mean you always have to work up-close. Think of it as cropping out unwanted elements rather than using your lens to zoom in. Use surrounding elements to emphasise size but still frame the image so the building's surroundings are removed, giving emphasis to its shapes and patterns rather than it having context. 

 

4. Use Colour

By using a single bright colour in a shot that's mostly of the same shades can give the viewer of the image a point of focus that can also be used to guide and lead the eye to other points in the shot. This is even more so when the area is limited and contrasts so greatly with the rest of the image. Strong blocks of colour can also work well but you don't want one to overpower the other so the viewer doesn't pay attention to the rest of the frame. 

 

 

5. Look For Shadows 

This isn't something our eyes tend to see but when arranged in the frame properly, they can be a great subject matter on their own or enhance the shapes/patterns of an object you're making your point of focus. 

 

6. Lines Work Well

 If you want to use lines in your image, try to find a location that gives you a shot that has lines that vary in size and colour. Bolder lines can have more impact than small, faint ones and do remember they will still guide the eye through the shot and tell the viewer where they should be looking. Don't think lines have to be straight either as a curved line will still guide the viewer's eye. 

 

7. Shoot Through Other Objects

If you find a rain-covered window or even a water feature that can be used to capture a distorted reflection thanks to the ripples in the water, use them to your advantage. Keep an eye out for coloured glass, reflective buildings and any other items you think will give your city shots that abstract feel you're searching for. 

 

8. People Like Patterns & Symmetry 

As humans, we like to see repeating patterns and symmetrical objects so take advantage of this. Patterns can guide the eye across an image as well as make your abstract shot more interesting thanks to the shapes they create. 

 

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Summer feels like it was made for photography, doesn’t it? The days stretch long, the light is warm, and everywhere you look, colour and energy are waiting to be captured. Whether it’s golden sunsets, sparkling water, lively festivals, or family adventures, summer moments deserve to be photographed. Get ready with your phone or camera—every day holds a frame-worthy memory waiting to be preserved and enjoyed.

However, as magical as summer light can be, it also presents challenges. Bright sunshine can cast harsh shadows, create faded skies, or produce unnatural skin tones. Look to Zoner Studio with its sensational editing tools, and you’ll find that tricky lighting conditions become easy to handle. 

With just a few clicks in the Zoner Studio interface, you can recover detail in bright highlights, lift shadows, and balance colours. Use the lights and shadows sliders and gradient filters to adjust white balance and sharpness. Built-in presets and retouching tools assist with everything from exposure correction to removing backgrounds, letting you transform your images without spending hours at the computer. 

 

 

Let’s look at the Color Reconstruction slider, for example. Take that recent beach shot of the family that lost its detail due to overexposure. Darken light areas, highlight contours, adjust brightness and contrast, and more, all with this easy-to-use tool. Then, that shot will soon be a treasured capture of a fun-filled holiday. This fantastic photo enhancement tool can be used on photos shot in RAW and only for those with blowouts.

Want to recover shadows, tone down bright areas, or fine-tune lights and shadows even more? If you’re working with RAW files, you’ll get the best results. Use the Black Point and White Point sliders to fine-tune contrast, the Lights and Shadows sliders in the Dynamic Range panel (these let you recover details in bright skies or dark areas without affecting the whole photo). Or simply adjust the Contrast slider for a broader effect. These tools help you balance your photo while bringing out highlights, colours, and details in the shadows. The Dynamic Range panel will allow even finer control.

 

 

Taking lots of photos is part of summer fun with its holidays and sightseeing ventures. This can also mean ending up with hundreds—sometimes thousands—of images. Sorting through them can feel overwhelming; allow Zoner Studio to make the culling process painless. Perhaps you're a professional photographer, looking for a fast workflow to process those magnificent wedding photos. Zoner Studio is the ideal solution.

Do you want to quickly spot your best work while filtering out duplicates or weaker shots? A terrific side-by-side comparison feature allows you to review images such as versions of the same beach wedding ceremony sunset and instantly choose the one you prefer. Customisable workflows and keyboard shortcuts will have you organising your photos in minutes. Use Zoner Studio’s autostacking function to group similar images, including continuous mode and your favourite panoramas. Click the Autostacking icon in the Navigation toolbar, where you’ll open the Autostack options, such as Exposure Bracketing and Panorama.

Once your photos are ready, storing them safely is just as essential a task as editing. Zoner Studio makes the entire process straightforward and enjoyable. With Zoner Cloud, you can upload images straight from Zoner Studio. Your favourite photos will be kept secure and neatly organised while making them accessible on any device. Whether it’s your summer vacation album, a handful of beach day shots, or an entire series of wedding day images, your photos are always backed up and within quick reach. 

 

 

How can Zoner Studio help you save your images easily and permanently? Zonerama—Zoner Studio’s innovative free online gallery—allows you to display your work without using up valuable storage space, as there’s no space limit with this gallery. View your stored albums privately, with family, or share them with your clients; share or show only what you want, the choice is entirely up to you. 

At the end of the day, summer is about capturing life’s brightest, most colourful moments, and having the right tools makes all the difference. Named EISA Photo Software 2025–2026 Best Photo Software of the Year, Zoner Studio is your ultimate companion for editing, organising, storing, and sharing. This summer, use Zoner Studio to help your creativity shine. Turn your experiences into fabulous memories you can view over and over. You can try it for a week, no strings attached here.

 

Always an interesting subject for photographers, standing stones and stone circles have fascinated people for centuries; but what is the best way to photograph them?

 

1. Lighting

Although standing stones change little through the day, the prime factors for photographing standing stones are lighting, atmosphere and, preferably an absence of people. Lighting can be good at either end of the day, but the absence of people usually restricts the keen photographer to an early start.

 

2. Wide Circles

The problem with many stone circles – including my local circle, Castlerigg, just outside Keswick, is that they are relatively low in height, and very extensive in width – so if you are to include the whole circle, you need a really interesting sky to balance the long, thin foreground. A graduated filter can be of enormous use here, as the stones early in the day may be in fairly low light, but the sky might be three or four stops lighter; without a grad, exposure for the sky will give a very underexposed foreground, conversely, exposure for the foreground will severely overexposed sky. An alternative would be to bracket exposures and join them using HDR software.

Compositionally, it's often best when trying to get the whole circle in either to take a series of overlapping pictures and join them as a panorama or by using a fairly wide lens, to give the foreground stones more dominance in the picture. 

 

3. Focus On A Part Of The Circle

An alternative way of portraying standing stones is by capturing part, rather than the whole. I spend a great deal of time looking at the relationship of the stones with each other, and their background, in order to create a picture that is well balanced. This technique also works well if there are other people present as it is much easier to select a few stones free of people than to wait for the whole circle to clear. This is particularly important if a group of stones – or their background – might benefit from afternoon light when there are more people present.

 

4. Try Black & White

Consider also the best way to portray the stones – whether colour or black & white, unless there is great sky colour present, such as sunrise or sunset, I like the timeless quality of black & white on standing stones, to simplify the image and render them as a set of neutral tones.

So next time you find yourself near a stone circle, set your alarm and capture the timeless quality of these ancient sites.
 

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I do not like Facebook. It feels like a haunted time capsule that insists on reminding me of who I was 14 years ago. It pops up with posts like a close-up of a dandelion paired with Death Cab for Cutie lyrics. Or it digs up photos from my first “portrait sessions” in 2009, when my friends graciously stood in front of my camera so I could figure out what aperture even meant. Every time I log in, it feels like an unwelcome nostalgia trip.

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Photographers are always chasing fresh perspectives—but this time, I didn’t just change my angle, I completely flipped the rules. During a golf-themed shoot, I turned my light modifier into something it was never meant to be: the view from inside the golf hole itself. Here’s the story (and the shot) that came out of it.

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In addition to new capabilities like a dedicated bird autofocus mode that bring the Z6III’s capabilities in line with cameras like the Z8 and Z9, Nikon’s new firmware 2.0 brings an added, likely overlooked, feature that is worth pointing out.

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Image Credit: Nikon

 

Nikon is pleased to announce the release of firmware version 2.00 for its full-frame mirrorless camera, the Nikon Z6III. This marks the first major update since the launch of the Z6III and introduces several features equivalent to those found in the flagship Nikon Z9 and Nikon Z8.

This first major update since the release of the Z6III, with its already incredible high-speed performance, adds the long-awaited [Birds] mode to subject detection, offering an enhanced shooting experience for stills and videos. When [Birds] mode is selected, the camera automatically tracks birds in flight with great precision, keeping them in focus even against complex, high-contrast backgrounds such as forests and rocky mountains.

Firmware version 2.00 also adds the Auto Capture function, enabling automatic shooting under pre-configured conditions, supporting flexible shooting styles tailored to various situations. This allows users to specify the subject type, direction of movement, and shooting distance range to capture previously difficult scenes, such as those that require shooting in places or positions where photographers would disturb their subject.

What's more, for the first time as a Nikon product, the Z6III supports the "Nikon Authenticity Service", a solution primarily aimed at media organisations and creators who require a high level of trustworthiness in their work. The service is compatible with the C2PA (Coalition for Content Provenance and Authenticity) standard, clearly recording provenance information from shooting through to editing to ensure greater transparency and reliability of content.

The list of functions made accessible thanks to firmware version 2.00 doesn't end there. The full list, along with access to download, can be found on the Nikon download centre.

Nikon will continue to enhance its products through firmware updates that address user needs, while also fostering an environment in which all photographers and creators can engage in creative and professional activities with confidence and peace of mind.

For more information, please visit the Nikon website.

Photographers are trained to nod yes. In the beginning, it feels like survival, as every gig could be rent money, portfolio material, or a referral waiting to happen. Even seasoned pros get caught in the same reflex: saying no feels reckless, like turning down income in a field where nothing is guaranteed. The truth, though, is harder: some jobs cost you more than they pay, and others leave bruises that take weeks to shake off.

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The Canon RF 75-300mm f/4-5.6 lens is one of those rare pieces of gear that might actually change how you approach everyday shooting. It’s not built for prestige or to impress with specs, but it opens the door to focal lengths you can’t reach with a kit lens or a phone. At $219, it offers a chance to experiment with telephoto work without committing to a major investment, and that alone makes it worth your attention.

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Sigma, the renowned Japanese manufacturer of high-performance cameras and lenses, is proud to announce the opening of its exclusive pop-up store in Bloomsbury, just steps away from the British Museum. Running from 13 to 22 September 2025, the store offers visitors a rare opportunity to experience the critically acclaimed Sigma BF camera firsthand. Opening hours are 10am to 6pm daily.

Celebrated for its minimalist design and exceptional performance, the Sigma BF has quickly become a favourite among professional image creators. Engineered with a powerful full-frame sensor and crafted for intuitive handling, the BF delivers stunning image quality while maintaining a sleek, user-friendly form. Since its debut, the camera has earned top honours including Best Camera at the Monocle Design Awards 2025 and Best Full Frame Professional Camera at the TIPA World Awards 2025, praised for its “austere beauty, technical prowess and ease of use.”

Hand-built at Sigma’s sole factory in Aizu, Japan, the BF exemplifies the brand’s dedication to precision and craftsmanship. Each camera features a unibody design milled from a single aluminium ingot—a meticulous process that takes over seven hours and ensures uncompromising quality. Visitors to the pop-up will also have the chance to explore Sigma’s full range of professional-grade stills and cine lenses, trusted by photographers and filmmakers worldwide. 

Sigma will also be running six free photo walks during the week, all of which start and end at the store. Each one is led by a professional photographer, who will be able to show you how to shoot more meaningful and beautiful images in a busy urban setting. There is no obligation to use Sigma equipment, but you’re very welcome to borrow gear if you wish during the walk. This includes BF cameras and matching I series lenses (subject to numbers). No booking is required on the walks, but we are limiting numbers of some of the walks so places will be allocated on the day on a first-come-first-served basis.

 

The store address is:

33 Museum Street, London WC1A 1LH

 

For more information, please visit the Sigma website.

 

 

Using long exposure can create some cracking shots when used correctly but the smooth, almost dry-ice look using longer shutter speeds gives to water isn't everyone's cup of tea or idea of fun when they're heading off for a day of photography outdoors. So, if you've never tried this technique before and are wondering if it's for you, have a think about the following questions to help you decide.

 

1. Are you a fan of the outdoors?

This technique is all about leaving the shutter open long enough to turn movement into creative streaks and blur to give you a landscape with an almost graphical twist. For this reason, many types of these shots are taken where there's a wide expanse of water (the coast mainly) but you can also capture inland landscapes when you have a sky dotted with clouds or scenes with waterfalls that can add a feeling of movement and direction to the shot when taken with longer shutter speeds. The coast does give you many other still objects you can use to guide the eye and add interest to your shots though. Think tall piers sat in a mist of water, rocks adding foreground interest and several groynes or even a jetty leading the eye.

If you prefer city shooting, you can use the same technique to create streaks of colour from traffic.

 

2. Do you have a tripod?

If the answer to this is 'no' and you don't intend purchasing one anytime soon then long exposure photography isn't for you. Why? Well, with exposures in access of 30 seconds, these types of images aren't something you can really successfully take hand-held as shake will just ruin your shots.

 

3. Do you have a remote / cable release?

This isn't as important as owning a tripod but owning and using one will mean you don't have to actually touch the camera's shutter button, reducing the chances of shake spoiling the shot. However, if you want to use your camera's Bulb mode, you really need to have a remote / cable release in your kit collection. If you have a camera you've purchased more recently then it may have the option for the shutter to be controlled via an app from your Smartphone, eliminating the need for a remote to be purchased.

 

4. Do you have an ND filter?

To get the really long exposures, particularly when working out of the hours of dawn and dusk, you'll need an ND filter. These come in various strengths and will extend your shutter speeds to the length needed for capturing silk-like water and clouds streaked across the sky.

If you don't own an ND filter but do have a polariser you can still try this technique but you'll have to do it at the start or end of the day when light levels are lower. You'll also need to use a low ISO and keep your apertures small.

Polarising filter can work if just starting out or shoot at dusk with a low ISO and narrow aperture.

 

 

5. Do you have patience?

This technique isn't for someone who likes to take a quick snap and move onto the next thing as you will end up standing around for a while waiting for your camera to capture and process the image. With exposure times that can often extend well beyond a minute, you can find yourself twiddling your thumbs quite a lot of the time. However, if you enjoy quiet moments of contemplation or just like to watch the world go by, then maybe playing around with longer shutter speeds is for you.

 

6. Do you have an eye for composition?

When working with longer shutter speeds, landscape scenes can often take on a more graphical feel/composition and you have to ensure there are elements in the frame which will show movement as well as items to guide the eye and add balance. Without clouds moving across the sky or some form of water element, there won't be any movement which when combined with a slower shutter speed is what gives you the nice streaks and soft, blurry water effect.

 

7. Do you mind working out calculations?

Although this statement isn't relevant to everyone any more, if you don't own a smartphone or forget to take it out with you, you'll find yourself scribbling down shutter speed calculations when working with Bulb mode. So, if you're not a fan of maths, you'll need to invest in one of the many apps that will work out calculations for you.

  8. Do you have Live View?

Cameras that have a Live View function make the set-up for this technique much simpler as it often still works even with a strong ND filter attached to your lens. If you look through a viewfinder with an ND filter attached you won't be able to see anything which means to set-up, you have to remove the filter to compose and focus (manually) before carefully fitting the filter back in-place which is obviously doable but not as straightforward as using Live View.  

 

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DJI has expanded its OsmoAudio™ ecosystem with the launch of the DJI Mic 3, a next-generation mini wireless microphone that combines the compactness of Mic Mini with the functionality of Mic 2—giving creators professional-grade sound in a compact, easy-to-use package.

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Creating consistent color across your work is a challenge whether you’re editing one image or building a whole series. LUTs, or lookup tables, give you a simple way to save and apply a particular look over and over again. They’re not just for stills. You can bring them into video projects too, which makes them useful if you want your photos and videos to carry the same style.

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Broncolor has announced the Stelos 800 L, a battery-powered monolight delivering 800 joules and a notably compact design. The unit adds adjustable flash color temperature, a feature the company has typically reserved for its power packs, alongside high-speed sync, V-mount battery support, and USB-C power input. Availability is slated for September 2025 through authorized partners.

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Shooting in stormy weather can produce some great shots, but you need to know a few things before you start hitting the shutter button.

 

1. Safety First

Firstly, be very careful if there's thunder and lightning as this can potentially be very dangerous for you and your equipment. Make sure you are a safe distance away from the storm and don't stray too far away from your car or home, just in case. It's always worth reading up on lightning safety tips and if it's possible, consider shooting from inside.
 

2. Long Exposures

As you'll increase your chance of capturing lightning if you use a longer exposure, a tripod will be needed to stop shake spoiling your shots. If your camera has a Bulb setting, and you have a way to keep the shutter open, use this method to increase your chances further. If not, around a 30-second exposure should be fine.

Storms can occur at any time of day but trying to use longer exposures during the day can lead to overexposed skies so wait for an evening storm when the sky's darker.
 

3. Timing

The process of shooting storms can be a bit hit and miss, however, as Pete mentioned in a previous article, you can determine roughly when to fire the shutter by working out the direction of which the storm is moving.

Pete said: "In nature, light travels faster than sound, so lightening strikes first followed by thunder, but us photographers can reverse the process (wait for thunder then count the time between that and a lightning strike) to time a shot and predict roughly when lightning will strike.

When you hear thunder count in seconds the gap before the lightning strike(s). If after the next rumble the lightning strike's quicker, it's likely that the storm is moving towards you and strikes will become more frequent until it passes over."
 

4. Lightning

To capture lighting, you need patience. Set your camera up on a tripod and aim it at where the storm seems to be. Look where the lightning appears and set your camera up facing that general area as lightning tends to strike intermittently in the same area. You should use a small aperture, f/16 or f/22 if possible. Use a long exposure as mentioned earlier to increase your chances of capturing lightning. You may find you need to focus manually as autofocus can struggle in dark conditions.

You'll need a piece of card to cover the lens which you can remove when you think lightning's about to strike and hold back in place when it's happened. Timing is everything but after a few strikes, you should get the hang of it. 

 

5. Clouds

It isn't all about lightning though, storm clouds can also make very provoking photos too. To add more interest, use objects such as trees on the horizon line. This will also add scale to the shot, further enhancing the size of the storm clouds above.
 

You've read the technique now share your related photos for the chance to win prizes: Daily Forum Competition

Launch offer: Now just $15 for the first month of the Aftershoot Pro plan following a 30-day free trial.

 

Aftershoot recently announced the launch of Instant AI Profiles, a breakthrough feature that allows photographers to transform their Lightroom presets into adaptive AI-powered editing profiles in less than 60 seconds. Instant AI Profiles make AI editing accessible from day one – just your own presets turned into consistent, personalized edits.

While creating a Professional AI Profile requires a large, consistent editing library, many photographers instead rely on Lightroom presets that still need manual fine-tuning – Instant AI Profiles transform those presets into a smarter, scalable AI-powered workflow.

 

Instant AI Profiles: Key Benefits

• Smarter Than Presets Alone – applies your style intelligently per image with context, adapting to lighting, camera, and scene.
• No Uploads Required – Builds an AI profile in minutes, without needing a single photo upload.
• Consistent, Branded Results – Delivers a signature look at scale from day one.
• Room to Grow – Start with Instant AI Profiles, then seamlessly upgrade to Professional AI Profiles for maximum precision as you edit more.

 

“With Instant AI Profiles, we’re removing wait time that arises due to lack of training datasets photographers can provide from the get-go,” said Justin Benson, Co-Founder of Aftershoot. “In just a minute, photographers can see their look intelligently applied across a gallery. It’s the fastest way to get from preset to adaptive edits, while still opening the door to future growth with Pro AI Profiles.”

Harshit Dwivedi, Founder and CEO of Aftershoot, added: “We built Instant AI Profiles to make AI editing accessible to more photographers. Until now, creating a custom AI profile required Lightroom Classic catalogs with at least 2,500 edited photos, which left many relying on marketplace profiles that didn't always reflect their style. With Instant AI Profiles, photographers can transform their own presets into adaptive editing styles – better than presets alone, and tailored to their look.”

Unlike Lightroom’s presets, which apply a fixed look across every photo, Instant AI Profiles apply your style dynamically – adjusting for lighting, camera model, and scene context to deliver smarter, more tailored edits. That means less manual correction and more consistency from the start.

 

 

How It Works

Creating an Instant AI Profile takes just a few minutes:

1. Upload your own Lightroom preset (.xmp).
2. Personalize your AI Profile with a simple 3-step visual guide, adjusting exposure, temperature, and tint to your style.
3. Click “Generate Profile” – and your Instant AI Profile is ready to use across the entire galleries.

Instant AI Profiles are included with Aftershoot Pro and above, available starting August 26, 2025. To celebrate the launch, new users can claim a 30-day free trial plus their first month of Aftershoot Pro for just $15 (usually $48/month).

For existing trial users, the special $15 first-month offer is also available as part of a limited-time campaign running through September 9, 2025.

To try Instant AI Profiles, please visit the Aftershoot website.

 

Most of the time, when you're out taking photographs, even if it's a quick snap, make sure your shot has a strong point of interest as if it doesn't, you'll find anyone who looks at your image will look at the image, their eyes won't find anything to settle on and they'll simply move on to look at another shot. Without a focal point, there's nothing to draw them into the photograph so they'll simply lose interest with it. Of course, the more interesting the focal point is, the better your shot will be but there are a few other things you can do to make sure your focal point draws the viewer's attention.

 

1. One Main Focus Point

Images can have various points of interest but don't let them pull the attention from the main subject as your shot will just become confusing and the viewer will be unsure what to look at. Less attention-grabbing points of interest can be used on lines to draw the eye to a final resting point.

 

2. Lead In Lines

As mentioned above, by placing minor points of interest along a line you can guide the eye to your main point of interest. Straight lines such as fences or paths work well but other shapes, as talked about in our beginner's composition guide, can work equally as well. The spiral of a staircase will guide the eye up or down while positioning items along an S curve with the main point of focus at the end will lead the eye through the image. There's also the triangle where key features appear along the sides and points of the shape and when it's used correctly, you can create balance in your shot and also guide the eye through the photograph. Repetitive or symmetrical objects such as lamp posts lining either side of a street, a line of palm trees, statues or a series of arches can also be used to guide the eye to a single point.

 

3. What's In Focus

By using a larger aperture if you're working manually or by selecting Portrait Mode or Macro Mode if you're working close-up, which lets the camera know you want to use a larger aperture, you'll be able to throw the background out of focus, leaving all the attention on your main subject which will be sharp. By putting more distance between your subject and the background you'll be able to make the effect more prominent too. If you're a DSLR user, switching to a longer lens (zoom or prime) with wider maximum apertures will make it easier to get the blurry backgrounds you're looking for.

 

Photo by Joshua Waller 

 

4. Blur

When your main subject is moving, be it a pet, a person running, a car or bike, try using a slower shutter speed and pan with them, blurring the background into streaks but leaving them sharp. This will mean all focus falls on your main subject and the sense of speed is increased thanks to the horizontal streaks the background now has.

 

5. Size

A more obvious way to make sure you have one main point of focus is to fill the frame with it. This works particularly well when photographing flowers but can be applied to portraits too.

Photo by Joshua Waller 

6. Colour And Pop

Use contrasting colours or take it one step further and have a go at colour-popping, where you leave your main point of focus in colour and turn the rest of the image black & white. If you're shooting portraits, positioning your subject against a dark background will really make them 'pop' from the image.

 

7. Frame

By adding a frame you guide the eye to one main focal point in the scene that you want highlighting. You can also hide other objects you don't want to be in the shot behind your frame and it does have the added effect of just making your image more interesting generally.

 

8. Crop

If you have images on your computer that seem a little busy try cropping it to see if removing some of the elements makes it less busy and as a result, you get a main point of focus.
 

You've read the technique now share your related photos for the chance to win prizes: Daily Forum Competition

If you want to find out about six essential apps for night (and day) photography, you've come to the right place. Whether you have iOS or Android, these apps will greatly enhance your photography. The sixth one is surely one that doesn't make it on many photography app lists!

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